How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 9

The Base

Eight blog posts down and now the last.  If you’ve managed to understand my ramblings and made it to this last post – congratulations you have done well.

In this last blog we’ll finish off the model by painting the base and adding some terrain.

To start off, using GW Agrax Nightshade, wash the base interior heavily.  Once dry, drybrush the stones with GW Desert Yellow and then GW Bleached Bone.

If you placed a piece of plastic sprue on the base, paint it GW Fortress Grey, giving the edges a light highlight of GW Bleached Bone. At this point the base is done.

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To protect your model from the rigours of game play, give it a spray with Matt Varnish, allowing it to dry overnight.  The next day you can then add some tufts of grass to the base just to pretty it up a bit.

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Well done – you have reached the end of this painting blog and you should now have in your hands a well painted miniature.  Now all you have to do is paint the remaining 30-34 models (if your doing a full platoon of Infantry) but I’m sure you can now see how easy that is going to be.

By the way – while I was doing this blog I was also doing a squad of Armoured Infantry.  I used the same techniques as I’ve described in the last 8 posts, just changed the colours around a bit (and used GW Nuln Oil as a wash instead of GW Agrax Earthshade).



How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 8


At this point you have a fairly flat coloured model of a FSA infantry man – now its time to bring him to life!

First off a bit of information – I wash EVERYTHING!  Every Dystopian Legion and Dystopian Wars model I do has some kind of wash on them – why? Because I love using washes and once you complete this step, I’m thinking you will too.

Grab yourself a large brush and then use GW Agrax Earthshade.  Give the entire model a complete wash using the brush, ensuring you get every area covered.  Try to make the wash light around the face (just enough to bring out the features) and heavy around the hands so the individual fingers stand out.

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Leave the model to dry for a day (or night).  If you have missed parts or want an area darker, just apply some more.

You should now have an eye-popping model – on the next and last blog we’ll complete the base and pretty it up just a little bit.  Watch out for those exploding 6’s till then.

How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 7

Flesh & Hair

Welcome back to the how to paint blog – I hope your models are coming along well.

Now its time to paint the flesh on the model and hair.  There are only three flesh areas on the FSA Infantry models; that being the face, left and right hands.  For flesh I used GW Bronzed Flesh.  This colour is now quite old so I suggest using GW Ungor Flesh instead.


When doing the face, make sure you paint all the way to the collar and the back of the neck below the hairline.  The hands are easy enough, remembering the hand holding the gun has two sides – make sure you don’t get any paint on the barrels of the gun.

The hair can be any colour you want (except for purple or pink they are hard-bitten infantry men after all).  I like to use a range of dark and light browns, rarely some black or a creamy white for blonde hair.

Paint the hair around the back and sides of the head – most of these models have sideburns in front of the ears so remember to paint these as well.  If you have a model with a bread or moustache, paint these the same colour.


Well this brings us to the end of the colouring section of the model – next blog will be the use of washes to really bring it to life.  Until then – watch out for exploding 6’s.

How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 6


So it’s time to do some more metal on the FSA infantry man.  Using GW Chainmail, apply the colour to the metal chest-plate that all the models have.  On the chest-plate there is also a breather hose (for when the evil Empire of the Blazing sun use their deadly gas grenades or when the Prussian eat sausages the night before a battle) so paint this Chainmail as well.


The breather pipe goes around the right hand side of the model and connects to the filter canister on the bottom of the backpack.  Pick out the pipe and then also paint the canister in Chainmail.


Now it’s time to start on the Winchester Repeating Carbine the model is holding.  Paint Chainmail on the barrels and underneath on the trigger guard. Don’t paint the very end of the gun.  Remember the Carbine is two sided so make sure you spin the model around and do both sides.

The next metal we’ll be using is GW Dwarf Bronze.

Where the breather tube is located, you’ll find another pipe that runs from the backpack up under the right hand shoulder of the model – I think this is a coolant tube.  Pick out this pipe with the Dwarf Bronze.


On the rear of the model there are two somethings on the left hand side of the backpack (yes, I have no idea what they are) – paint these is the Bronze as well.  The final bronze piece is the hilt of the knife wore around the waist.  Carefully pick this out put try not to get any on the pouches or the coat.


And that is the metal for the model.  In Part 7 we’ll finish the gun and start on the flesh and hair.  Till then watch out for those exploding 6’s.

How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 5

Belt, Straps and Pouches

GW Scorched Brown was the next colour to be applied to the belt around the models waist (or the parts you could see of it) and the two pouches on the belt.

The straps on the front of the model, from his shoulders down, are part of the back pack and also need to be painted Scorched Brown.  The interior top of the cap is also filled in with the Brown paint.


Finally the top flap of the backpack, plus the straps leading to it are coloured.


At this point, the GW Scorched Brown can be put back on your painting rack cause you are done with this colour.

Part 6 will delve into the metal parts of the chest-plate, piping and Winchester Repeating Carbine.

Till then watch out for those exploding 6’s.

How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 4

The Coat

The largest section on the FSA infantry models is their long coat.  The coat makes up most of the surface area of the model and for the most part is very flat and without detail.

The colour that I’ve used for the coat is GW Karak Stone – a layer range paint that gives a good, earthy tone.  As a contrast to the Karak Stone the cuffs and coat tags were painted with GW Bestial Brown.


The model’s cap was also painted in the same colours – the Karak Stone making up the material while the Bestial Brown was used for the rim and peak of the cap.

I did start to paint the backpack straps in the same brown as the cuffs then forgot that it is a different brown to the one I was using so just try to ignore that in the picture below – thanks.  The backpack was also done in Karak Stone but the top flap was left for the next stage.


When doing this stage try to paint around the belt, pouches and equipment the model has around its waist. These will be picked out in more detail later on.

So that is the coat done – in part five I’ll be doing the Belt, the belt pouches and the backpack.  Thanks for reading.

How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 3

Undercoat and Boots

Welcome back to my painting blog for FSA Infantry.

Undercoating is the most important part of the process – without a good undercoat every layer of paint after that will be affected.

I like to use a white undercoat on my models as it makes the colours brighter – which comes in handy as I also like to wash all my miniatures, producing a slightly darker tone.

Start off by spraying all five sides of the model (front, back, left, right, top).  You should aim for a light dusting effect rather than a total white out.  Spray across the model rather than starting and stopping the spray pointed directly at the model.

The more spray you use, the less detail on the model.  A good way to judge if you’ve got enough on is too look at the slotta-base – if you can just make out the black through the spray then you have enough.


Allow the model to dry overnight; if you live in an area with high humidity then you might want to allow a longer drying time (or even hold off your undercoating for a drier day as the spray can pick up the moisture in the area and transfer it to your model).

The Boots

Okay time to get our paint brushes and apply the first coat.  I like to work up the model, starting with the feet.  Some of the colours I’m about to mention have been replaced in that companies colour range – if you want to copy my colour scheme just find a colour that closely matches what i have used.  If you intending to expand your force, you might want to pick up a couple of extra pots of paint just in case your colour is retired from the range.

First colour is GW Adeptus Battlegrey.  This I painted on the side and underneath the soles of the boots.  Some models are in a kneeing position, showing all the sole of one foot; others were standing and my terrain only showed a part of the sole.

Second colour is GW Fortress Grey.  This is painted across the top of the foot and up the shins, taking care to cover the very top of the boot showing just under the long coat and above the shin guard.

To finish off the boot I used GW Chainmail.  Chainmail is applied to the Shin guards and their side straps.  I also covered the front of the boot, showing these infantry models have steel caps.

Here is an example of how the three colours appear on the model.

IMG_0183Also if you painting a number of infantry; it might be a good idea to paint the same part on each model at the same time (EG: all the soles at the same time, then all the boots, then all the shin guards).  This allows the paint to dry before using the next colour and you can see if you make any mistakes quite easily.

So that is all for part 3. In Part 4 I tackle the biggest area of the model – the long coat.

Take care out there and watch out for those exploding 6’s!

How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 2

The Base

The base of the model represents it’s position on the gaming table – touching the base is the same as touching the model; you’ll read in many miniature games the term “base to base contact” meaning when bases are touching.

Spartan Games really did us a favour when they were deciding on what type of bases to use for Dystopian Legions.  After  decade of 40k, I had enough of the flat top and angled sides of their bases.  Dystopian Legions use a base similar to Privateer Press Warmachine and Hordes game.  The base has a recessed top and most come with an open slot to place the model in (commonly referred to as a slotta-base)

To begin, take your metal model and after cleaning off any flash try to fit the bottom runner (the piece between the models feet) into the slot.  If it is too long, use a pair of clippers to carefully cut away some of the extra length.

Then, again carefully with your clippers, put a slight bend in the metal runner.  Take extreme care not to snap the runner or twist it so far that the models feet move inwards.  The bend should be no more than 2-3mm – this allows the model to be held firmly in the slot while stopping it from tipping over.

Once your happy with the position of the model add some glue (I use Zap-A-Gap) and secure the model to the base.  You also might want to keep the feet of your model slightly higher than the base, this will help with when you come to put terrain in the recessed area. You can see from the picture below the slight bend in the this models metal runner; holding it securely in place.

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The next big decision is what to put in the recessed area of the base.  As it is recessed modelling sand or fine gravel and be used to represent the ground (and if you kept the feet slightly higher than the base it will look like the model is standing on top of the ground and not in it).

This part is only limited by your imagination so work out what common basing theme you would like through your force.  I use a combination of sand and rocks as I always image my guys slogging it over a battlefield rather and on a green grassy hill.  As well as the flock, I like to add some cut up plastic sprue; it makes for some interesting looking debris.

The picture below shows the use of sand, rocks and some plastic sprue.


You might be wondering why I suggest to do the terrain before undercoating – this is a personal preference but I like to cover the sand in an undercoat spray to help reduce the chance of it coming off.  Besides, plain sand has a boring colour – towards the end of the painting blogs I’ll show you how a wash and drybrush can really bring it to life.

That’s it for this painting blog – in the next outing we’ll tackle undercoating and doing the boots on the model.  Until next time – watch out for those exploding 6’s!

How to Paint…. Dystopian Legion FSA Infantry – Part 1

Hi everyone, thought I would try my hand today at a painting blog.

Recently I sat down with my Dystopian Legion FSA models and worked out where I was heading with my Platoon.  The Armoured Infantry had just arrived on my painting desk and these were to be my third Infantry unit.  (You can see my unboxing  The Armoured unit was to get my only APC transport so I saw the need to increase my other two infantry units to full strength.

After a quick online shop with and about 2 weeks of postage 4 FSA infantry arrived.

So I thought I would take this opportunity to show how I like to paint the most basic of models in the FSA – the ones that do all the work but get none of the glory.

Over a series of posts I’ll show you how to transform this


To this (and hopefully learn how to take better pictures along the way)


First post will be up in a few days – till then watch out for those exploding 6’s.

Part 2 ->>